HI Guys,

Need some advice regarding bleeding my brakes. 70 with P/B.

I have replaced all the calipers with VBP O ring calipers, installed new rubber hoses and rear brake lines, rebuilt the brake booster, and resleeved the master cylinder.

The car is not running yet but I would still like to bleed the brakes if I can. Someone told me I could gravity bleed them by opening all the bleeders, attaching some plastic tubing, and allow the calipers to drain in to a cup or container. The only way I have ever bled brakes is the old fashioned way of doing one at a time with two people. One pumping and one opening the bleeder as required.

What do you think about the gravity method including the master cylinder. The master cylinder has it's own bleeders.

Thank you,

Bill

Yeh,I bought one last fall,first time I ever used one,forget Pump and hold ,or gravity bleed,get one of these,they are the CATS A$$,also come in handy for checking for vacuum leaks,great tool

C3VR Lifetime Member #93

    I have had the best luck with gravity bleeding, one wheel at a time. Start with the right rear wheel inside bleeder screw, then to the outside, then move to the left rear, right front  and left front. Just open the screw and let it bleed into a cup. Make sure you have bench bled the master cylinder first.

     I used the pump and hold method and the vacuum pump method. Pump and hold gets your wife pissed and the vacuum pump makes your hands real tired and sore.  Gravity bleed, just crack open the bleeder and walk away for 15 minutes. Just make sure the master cylinder  doesn't go dry.  Go through the full sequence, pump after closing each screw and before starting the next. I had to go through and do all wheels 3 times before I had good firm pedal, but its the firmest I have ever had on this car and I have had it since 1986!

                                 Good Luck,

                                    Reid    '72 T-top

www.wildbunchcarclub.com

replacing your standard bleeders with speed bleeders makes the pump method much easier.. 

you just crack open a bleeder..  then get int he car and pump by your self..  no pump and hold.. they have a one way valve that doenst allow air back in..

when i did my truck a few weeks ago..  i drained all the lines..  even used an air compressor to blow air through them to get rid of as much of the old fluid as possible..  then filled the master cylinder and used a vacuum bleeder on each wheel..  then open one bleeder (changed them all to speed bleeders) at a time with a catch bottle and pumped 3 or 4 times..

my brakes are better than ever..

[QUOTE=Van Steel]Either method will work but did anyone tell you the correct order in which to bleed the brakes? The rear calipers have 2 bleeders on them. You have to do the RR 1st. Start w/the outise bleeder and than do the inside bleeder. Than move to the LR and do the same. When you get to the fronts there is only 1 on each caliper and you should do the RF 3rd and finally the LF. This is just in case you didn't know. [/QUOTE]

Thank you Vansteel! I may have to fugure out a way to give you some of my business. Should be plenty to go around. I still have to completely rebuild the front and rear suspensions but the car is drivable without doing so for now albeit the 34 year old is showing its age.

I have the Service Manual and I really appreciate all the advice. Looks like I will implement the gravity method. Should I still open one bleeder at a time even with the gravity method?

Also, what is the procedure for bench bleeding the master cylinder or can I open those bleeders first utilizing the gravity method.

Thank you ,

Bill

C3VR Lifetime Member #93

Fill the new master with fluid.  Pump the master until you are getting fluid through the unit.  This is know as bench bleeding, but you can bolt it on the car and not connect the lines if you don't have a good vice.    Connect lines from the outlet back to the fluid tank, and slowly pump the brakes.  When you have the air out of the master, connect the car's brake lines.

If  you get lucky, you may be able to finish bleeding the brakes by cracking the lines loose at the master, one at a time, while you have a helper pump the brakes.   Sometimes you can get all of the air out this way.  If not, you will  need to bleed the brakes at the wheels.

Fill the new master with fluid.  Pump the master until you are getting fluid through the unit.  This is know as bench bleeding, but you can bolt it on the car and not connect the lines if you don't have a good vice.    Connect lines from the outlet back to the fluid tank, and slowly pump the brakes.  When you have the air out of the master, connect the car's brake lines.

If  you get lucky, you may be able to finish bleeding the brakes by cracking the lines loose at the master, one at a time, while you have a helper pump the brakes.   Sometimes you can get all of the air out this way.  If not, you will  need to bleed the brakes at the wheels.

[/QUOTE]

Hi Kyster,

Please forgive my ignorance.

If I bolt up the master cylinder and open the bleeders one at a time on the original rebuilt master cylinder do I still need to bench bleed the MC?

If I do bench bleed how much pressure is required to get the fluid to pass through the mc?

I the purpose of bench bleeding to keep from introducing even more air in to th ebrake lines?

Thanks,

Bill

Yes, it,s just to keep the excess out if the lines.  If you want to bleed it all the way through, you can do that.  But if you don't bleed the master or you may find that you can't get enough fluid pressure to get the fluid moving enough to bleed the system.