Hello, I am new here – just googled and found you all.

 

Last week I purchased my first corvette, a 1968 convertible in need of a little attention.  The car is beautiful and of course came with it’s fair share of issues – all of which I have addressed except the convertible top linkage and the engine. 

 

This is not a numbers matching car and it has a 350.  I want to remove this engine and replace it with a period correct engine.  I am a DIY guy, but I have never pulled an engine before.  Does anyone have a step-by-step type of post here for removing an engine on a C3 ?   

There are probably several websites with correct details, but I will give you my version.
Disconnect battery.  Then disconnect all electrical:  Ignition wire, starter wires, alternator, A/C if so equipped, temp sender.
Disconnect oil pressure gauge tube.
Disconnect throttle linkage.
Disconnect fuel line from frame to fuel pump, and return line if so equipped.
Drain coolant and remove hoses, both radiator and heater.
If air conditioned, unbolt compressor and tie up out of the way.
If auto trans, disconnect kick down linkage, and unclip coolant lines from side of oil pan.
Remove flywheel cover from bottom of bellhousing.  If auto, unbolt torque converter from flywheel.
Unbolt six bolts from bell housing to block. 
Unbolt motor mounts.
Support transmission.
Lift engine a little ways and look for whatever I forgot to mention.

Good luck and have fun
Larry

We have the archives under the forums column but I've never noticed a post of that nature (but then I've never looked). The procedure would be the same as with most V8 cars but with the length of the nose, the lift would have to approach from the side because most lifts can't reach that far and due to space restraints I'd leave the tranny in the car. It's pretty straight forward. Disconnect any wiring, fuel line, exhaust, throttle linkage and trans. cable if auto trans., A/C compressor? and secure aside. Unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing or from the back of the motor if Auto trans and remove the inspection plate to unbolt the flex plate. Drain coolant and remove hoses. Remove oil lines from radiator and remove fan and clutch ass'y. to pull radiator. It's more obvious when you're standing over it eliminating obstacles one by one, and I'm sorry for being so brief. A service manual might be more specific, but unless it's a authorized GM I don't get much out of them. Something like a "Haynes" is almost totally useless, too vague, lacking important details. Sorry it's not much, but I hope this helps a little.  

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
                             Click to see larger views!

Excellent Larry. Your rendition is more detailed and year specific. I was writing at the same time. I'm glad you beat me to the draw.

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
                             Click to see larger views!

[QUOTE=VetteSpecialties]There are probably several websites with correct details, but I will give you my version.
Disconnect battery.  Then disconnect all electrical:  Ignition wire, starter wires, alternator, A/C if so equipped, temp sender.
Disconnect oil pressure gauge tube.
Disconnect throttle linkage.
Disconnect fuel line from frame to fuel pump, and return line if so equipped.
Drain coolant and remove hoses, both radiator and heater.
If air conditioned, unbolt compressor and tie up out of the way.
If auto trans, disconnect kick down linkage, and unclip coolant lines from side of oil pan.
Remove flywheel cover from bottom of bellhousing.  If auto, unbolt torque converter from flywheel.
Unbolt six bolts from bell housing to block. 
Unbolt motor mounts.
Support transmission.
Lift engine a little ways and look for whatever I forgot to mention.

Good luck and have fun
Larry
[/QUOTE]

pull hood....I would pull the 4 top rad support bolts, lossen the 2 bottoms leave in and roll the support forward, depending how long the car sits the front fenders might start to sag....disc. tack drive pull the dist....discon head pipes pull manifolds...pull fan and pullies...pull carb, pull clutch link and z-bar... disc. PS pump and lay it to the side....disc ground straps...some guys get the car on jacks and pull the front  wheels and tires...good luck!

 

anips2010-03-03 10:41:57

If you are using a cherry picker type lift you will need to remove one of the front wheels and place car on ja ack stand. you come from the side at an angle with the lift.

 Excellent !  thank you all.

 

I have a friend with an engine crane that I am going to borrow – might be a couple of weeks before I get going.  I will take pictures and notes as I go and pending availability (time is short these days) I will post my own how-to for the benefit of others down the road.

 

Thank you all for the information !   

Keep us posted !!  Ghost Guy !!  Love to see the pictures of the progress!! Welcome to the site !

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(click to see a larger image)

 

In the near future I may be able to use your photos, I'm thinking of replacing the engine. May be a crate engine.

I went with a crate and so far it's great.  I'm still having a fuel starvation problem around 80mph with a foot in it, but other than that it is so much better than the one I had built.  Won't make that same mistake with that same engine builder again.  If any of you are in Oklahoma, talk to me before you select an engine builder.

Good luck ghost-man!

Which crate engine did you get and where did you get it?

if I was buying a crate...  this would be it

Just a tip - on our long nosed cars, it's easiest to go in with the crane diagonally from the side under a wheel (obviously removed in advance   ) LukesVette2010-03-04 18:55:58

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Hey guys.  Ok, first off…everything you all wrote here was spot on !

 

I have never worked on a car before, so its all new to me.  I took pictures as I went, but admittedly not as many as I would have liked – once I got working I had to remind myself to take a photo and by that time 5 steps took place !

 

Long story short – the engine is out and on a stand.  I also pulled the transmission since its leaking, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to replace the seals.  It took me and my brother 6 hours to get it all done, but I was also being rather meticulous with cataloging the nuts and bolts I was removing.  Plus once I got the block out the power steering pump toppled over and left me a decent mess to clean up on the floor. 

 

Bumps and bruises, beer and scotch and 6 hours….not bad :-)

 

Now on to the rebuild.  I am picked up a set of Vortek heads and a Comp Cam (thumper) – the cam has a max lift of .479 and the heads .475 so I dropped the heads off at a machine shop yesterday along with the fly wheel to be cut.  I found that I need to replace the clutch as well. Installing an RPM airgap intake and reusing the edelbrock 650 carb.  Between the machine work, Easter and the Masters I think its going to be a few more weeks yet – but I’ll keep ya’s posted.

 

Anyone have experience with replacing the steering column ?  my 68 has a 69 column in it and I actually found (after a long search) a 68 specific column – but I am not sure what’s involved with the install?  I can see a couple bolts at the rag joint (which I plan to rebuild) two bolts at the fire wall and after that I am at a loss….is this a job I can tackle ?

http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/ this guy rebuit 2 of mine.

this is from a 76 hope it helps

don't think an air gap will fit under the hood. anips2010-03-23 08:35:08

Cthulha – thank you for the link, I am going to call that gentleman and see what he has to say.  I am not certain if this column needs to be rebuilt or not, it seems to be in tact and functioning.  Rraider1 – this is actually very helpful, that looks nearly identical to mine and certainly gives me an idea of what to expect.  I figured the benefit is removing the old and then reverse engineering the new – its just venturing into the unknown that worries me….so thank you.

 

Anips – this was my concern as well,  prior to starting the project I removed my carb and measured my current intake.  The air gap will actually be lower than the current, plus the old one had a 1 inch adapter under the carb which I will not be requiring.  There is always the chance that I screwed up the measurement – in which case I will purchase the 427 hood which I really love.

I'am looking at my 08 Edel. cat and it says it won't fit under stock corvette hood, it doesn't state what year hoods, Edel. teck line...800-416-2222, be prepared to wait a while, that way you can order you hood, I like the l-88 hood and the cold air setup will work with eithier with BB and SB, $$$$.

[QUOTE=Crimson Ghost]

Cthulha – thank you for the link, I am going to call that gentleman and see what he has to say.  I am not certain if this column needs to be rebuilt or not, it seems to be in tact and functioning.  Rraider1 – this is actually very helpful, that looks nearly identical to mine and certainly gives me an idea of what to expect.  I figured the benefit is removing the old and then reverse engineering the new – its just venturing into the unknown that worries me….so thank you.

 

[/QUOTE]

I put the original intake next to the airgap with a level and took a picture.  the Airgap is just over a half inch higher. 

ok, so I can't post a picture  :-(   I also can't seem to figure out how to edit my last post and delete that obnoxiously large error box - sorry.

the pics came through, looks real close, you'll find out soon enough, when you have the air cleaner bolted  on make a ball about 1" in dia. of "silly putty"and place it on the top of the high point of the air cleaner gently close the hood, open the hood and measure the thickness of the putty,1/2-3/4" will work 

Thank you, that's a good idea !