So I'm thinking of pulling my A arms and having the bushings and ball joints replaced. 

How hard is it to get the upper A arms out of the car?  I have an LT-1 with air cond. with the A6 compressor.

I don't mind taking out the alternator and moving the a/c compressor to the side.

Is that enough?

My 72' required the radiator shroud to be removed also. 

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Which means move the radiator.  Ugh.

I have managed to eek the control arms out by removing the front bolts/washers that secure the bushings. The bolts are a tight fit, up against the shroud, but they will come out....most of the time. Worth a shot, anyway. Back in the day, we would knock the two studs out of the frame to clear the control arm shaft, and make removal much easier. Also worth a look-see. 

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I didn't realize those were studs, I thought they were bolts.  Dang. Maybe I'll just do the lowers and tie rod ends...

I also removed the studs to reinstall my uppers. It was a LOT easier. I also did a complete alignment upon competition. 

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Well...they are "bolts", in the same sense that they are like the wheel studs on the wheel hubs. They have a serrated section in the non-threaded end of the stud, just like wheel studs. The serrations keep the studs from spinning when you install/remove the nuts for the control arm shaft(s). Sometimes, they knock out fairly easy....sometimes they don't wanna play.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

So you can't get a wrench/socket on the bolt "head" and that's why it is a stud?  Or is it mostly for when an alignment is done and the "bolt" needs to be stationary.

Guys:

I read this feed as I'll be doing this on my '68 big block but I don't have AC or PS. Same procedure I'm assuming?

The entire suspension will be coming off for rebuild. Going to be a hell of a project as rubber, springs, and quite a bit is original. I'm sure I'll have questions as I go along with this.

Did some suspension upgrades to my C6 Z, but this is my first rodeo for the C3 (I do have a local guy that did his '81 a few years ago so I have some help if stuck too). 

It's mainly just to make it harder for us to work on them...🤬

🤣🤣

The serrations are to keep it from spinning around when servicing the arms, or doing an alignment. You cannot get to the head of the stud(with a socket or wrench) with the arm in position, unless the spindle is popped off the control arm/ball joint.

With the arm/spindle separated, you can raise the arm up and get to the head of the stud/bolt, but....you cannot turn it because of the serrations. Also, a note on re-installing the arms with the studs off. You'll want to insert the control arm into position before re-installing the bolts/studs. Hold the ball joint end of the arm up, and insert the bolts into the frame. Wit the arm held up, you'll need a 14-18 inch or so long drift and a hammer to knock the bolts back into the frame, taking care to fit the serrated part of the bolt into the serrations on the frame hole...as best you can.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks Joel.  I think I will pay someone to do it.