Going to be replacing rear strut rods , one was bent so replacing both. Doing the rear shocks at the same time.  Looks pretty straight forward.  I'm using rubber bushings,  should I use any type lubricant to slide the in place. Thanks  , Dan.  

Normally not needed. 👍

Joel Adams
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Thanks appreciate it. Have a a Happy New Year

Rubber was a good choice.

A little dab of silicone grease may help slide things together easier.

Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Thanks for advice. Do the nuts on strut rod and shocks get torqued with car on ground? Thanks 

I wouldn't think it mattered.

Thanks.  Having a issue removing one of the strut rods. First came out with hardware no problem. Second one is bent , i have all the nuts off every bolt, even tried using a jack to relieve some of the pressure. Using a long punch hitting shock mount bolt in center as not to strip threads. It wont budge. Spray it with some blaster penetrating oil, going let sit overnight. will try again in morning. 

Can you not get the other end off to relieve any tension on the strut rod?

I tried but I do not have the room to really get a good hit on it. It's really in there. That's why I hoped to get the one by the shock (which has been removed).  Off to relieve tension on the other end. 

Can you turn the adjusting bolt? Work it back and forth?

Have you considered removing the center bracket that holds the ends and adjusters?

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Was able to get the camber adjustment nut and bolt out. The shock mount one is the one that won't come out. Tried PB blaster , torch,  won't budge.  Going to try CRC freezing spray and air chisel. Appreciate the advice. 

Greetings, The shock/strut rod mounting point is knurled on the inside. It has a flat spot that fits Only in one spot in bearing hub. Yes, they are a bear to remove. BUT, there is a tool that is available to thread on the stub to allow a persuader to assist in removal. Look in most of the vendor catalogs and find the spindle knockout tool. I have one, and know it works. 

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You might try threading the castlated nut on backwards flush with the end to protect the threads and then hit it with a hammer.

I've also heard of folks using a threaded iron pipe end cap to protect the threads from the hammer blows.

Thanks for the advice.  Tried castle nut on backwards,  no dice. Was at home depot looking for cap to put over, could not find one. Will try and look for the item you mentioned to out on threads to put over it. Next move, sawzall and a new strut rod shaft. Happy new year 

Just finished shocks and struts, too car for a drive to check it out. Going to need a rear wheel alignment. Does anyone have an idea of the cost of this. Thanks.

Word of advice on the rear alignment....you MUST find a shop that is familiar with the rear suspension on these cars to do the alignment. The alignment is a real pita to do to begin with, and not many shops are equipped to do them, nor do they have the proper shims or personnel. Even the dealerships are crap when it comes to doing these. It is time consuming, and somewhat frustrating to set the rear toe, so most places wind up just setting the camber and letting it go. Check around, and try to find a place, or person, that can do it properly....your tires, and wallet will thank you in the end. Just guessing, I'd say it will run at least $200 or more, unless you provide a good assortment of shims yourself. If you do, make sure to (secretly) count them before and after, to see that they used some, and take a look at the front of the trailing arms to verify new shims.

Joel Adams
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Thanks , .much appreciate the advice. Theres a few places around here I can call to make sure they do this type of alignment.  One of the strut rods I replaced besides the bushings being shot was bent. That was hell of a time getting that one in. I didn't put in adjustable ones, tried keeping as original as I can. 

Are your trailing arm bushings in good condition?    Replacing them is a big job though.  Also as far as torquing things on rear suspension:  The transverse leaf spring 'mounting bracket' has four bolts going into the differential rear cover.  Those need to be torqued with the car on the ground, or you risk breaking a bolt.   

I am currently doing an R&R on my 4-spd 79's entire rear suspension/drive train.  100,000 miles, and needed lots of TLC.😏

I didn't check on trailer arm bushings when doing strut rods. My mistake.  Just took a look and , I'm assuming there bad, as the shims are completely rusted and looks like never had been removed.  Going to order bushing kit , along with the tool to install. Also rear outer spring bushing kit. Looks like only thing I won't replace is the spring itself. Thanks for advice.  Sorry. I'm long winded

I purchased polyurethane bushings by "Energy Suspensions" which do not require a special tool for installation.  Not installed yet, but maybe others can comment on them.  Also, stainless steel shims are available to replace originals.  

Thanks, must appreciate it. Can you all the advice I can get.

So here is the Manufacturer's website to get more information:  Teamenergysuspension.com.   There are many sources that carry their bsuhings.

(There is also a similar-sounding site, Energysuspensionparts.com, a dealer which sells these, and other suspension parts)

Thanks Sasza79. I will check l it out. Its winter here, so trying to get the parts I need to install in March or maybe February.  

Question on the trailing arms bushings.  Once the trailing arms are out, are the bushings hard to remove and replace like the A arm bushings, or do they just come out and new ones put in?

Well, After doing a few, my own, and others, let's just say they are NOT a take and replace project. 

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Thanks for the help. Just getting ducks in row so when I start this project In a month or when weather gets a bit warmer here.

I will be doing mine soon on my '79 C3.   I already have my trailing arms removed.  I will update and let you know how it works out.  I will be removing the original OEM rubber bushings, and  I will install the replacement red poly-bushings made by Energy Suspension.  

 I haven't pulled the trailer arms out yet. But found a video on you tube for taking out bushings , which looks simple enough. It doesn't have a title except for 002 under its video picture. its by Greg  Ballenger.  Came across it looking how to remove trailer arm bushings 69 corvette. If i can figure how to send the link i will. 

Try Greg Ballenger002.  the video should come up on You Tube

has anyone used Por -15 paint. Thinking of using this after sanding down rear trailer arm and frame where i can reach. Thanks

That is funny you ask...I am planning to use Gloss Black POR-15 on mine.   You can see a good review comparing it to other coatings, the presenter is 'ProjectFarm' on YouTube.   He thoroughly tests all kinds of tools and products!

I think poly would be great for the trailing arms, but don't use them on the strut rods.  They won't let the strut rod twist slightly as the trailing arm goes up and down.

I'm going to stick with rubber bushings for my trailing arms and just buy the tool for installation of them. Then sand them and use the Por-15 to paint them. 

Just finished getting trailer arms out, also the bushings.  Purchased new bushings from Paragon.  They seem a touch to big or is that the way there supposed to be as I see they get tapped into place first then pressed in. I've contact a few places to see if they do this job. I don't mind trying it myself, as I even purchased tool for putting bushings in. Don't want to damage trailer arm or bushings.  Thsnks

Hi, They are a snug fit, yes. You CAN do it yourself. A vice is the poor man's press. I've done a few myself. Two more hands will make it easier. If you use poly, make Sure you use the grease that comes with them. 

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Thanks Shark. No grease came with these, what do you recommend.  When I ordered the from Paragon I mentioned rubber bushing. I know what I removed was rubber. These  new ones might have rubber inside but it either metal or something very hard which i think is poly. I will call them later to find out which one.  Still new to this Corvette hobbies. Thanks 

Most of the Energy Suspension products come with grease. Mine all did. They are the best in my opinion. What other vendors use I'm not sure. I don't believe rubber and polyurethane are used together. The grease is not petroleum based. It's a silicone, very sticky substance. Good stuff! 

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Thanks, appreciate the advice. 

Hey Elvis, minor point, they are called trailing arms, not trailer arms. 😉

Hope you get the bushings in with no problem.  👍

BTW:  Just to be clear, did you get the rubber OEM-type bushings, or the poly ones?

Not the poly. I called Paragon tech, and they helped out. My new bushings are rubber, but might go with your guys Energy suspension.  I found out I didn't totally remove whole bushing. The metal sleeve has to also come , which looks as rusty as every other part. Don't want to damage trailing arm so might just bite the bullet and go with your guys advice on Energy suspension.  Do you use the standard bolt that goes through the bushing  or something different.  Thanks  for clarifying the trailing arm  verbal,  much appreciated.  

Not the poly. I called Paragon tech, and they helped out. My new bushings are rubber, but might go with your guys Energy suspension.  I found out I didn't totally remove whole bushing. The metal sleeve has to also come , which looks as rusty as every other part. Don't want to damage trailing arm so might just bite the bullet and go with your guys advice on Energy suspension.  Do you use the standard bolt that goes through the bushing  or something different.  Thanks  for clarifying the trailing arm  verbal,  much appreciated.  

If the trailing arm bolt has never been removed, the original bolt is best. It is tapered to an extent, the correct length and strength. Also has the cotter key hole for the castelated nut. F.Y.I. They are a Real Bear to get back in. Suggestions for reassembly can be given later. If the outer sleeve is in good condition, it does not need to be removed. Just insert the bushing and inner sleeve.

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Yes the outer sleeve is good. I have new bolt that came with rubber bushing kit . Seen video on installing bolt using dental floss . Anything special about installing Energy suspension bushings.  Thanks 

Have had any experience with removing outer sleeve, I haven't given up on the rubber bushings just yet. Thanks 

I have not needed to remove the outer sleeve, so no experience there. I used a wire and fishing line on my bolt. If you use Energy product, use the supplied grease. 

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Thanks for help. 👍

Any time. We're ALL here to help one another. See ya at the next gathering. 

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That's why I'm doing the work in winter in Illinois,  so hopefully can make it.🚖