My oil pan leaks and has big dents, so I plan to remove it and replace it on the weekend.

You should be able to get the pan down with the steering out of the way. Are you replacing this a factory style pan?

Jack, I'm also needing to replace mine. I found a nice stock replacement on e-bay. A friend that builds motors for a living insists I remove the motor as the rear main seal is such a PITA to do in the car. I'm doing the front end over also and it gives me a chance to clean and repaint the front end with the motor out of the way.

Let us know how you make out I'd like to know how the real seal works out for you.

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

Here is a nice article on the complete "how to" on the seal replacement -http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html - they make it sound pretty straight forward and easy if you can get the car up in the air high enough. Wouldn't want to do this job with the car only three feet in the air; so therefore I paid a shop to do mine two years ago. They did not remove the engine, they did it a shown on this link. It didn't leak for about 3 months but now it is back again PITA  Good luck with it in either case

yes I will replace pan witha factory pan that I bought off E Bay.

Well, I'm not gonna hold my breath !!! No, no no. uh uh.

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[QUOTE=jp75vette]yes I will replace pan witha factory pan that I bought off E Bay. [/QUOTE]

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

Don't let them scare you off!  Removing and reinstalling the pan takes a couple of hours at the most.  And sometimes the seal takes an extra fifteen minutes, if it goes well.  Loosen (but do not remove) all of the other main bearings to let the crank sag a bit, then just push the old seal out and the new seal in.  Sometimes it helps to rotate the engine to help pull the seal along.  Do not line up the ends of the seal with the block, but rather offset it a quarter inch or so.  Do the same with the seal in the cap.  Then re-torque everything and put the pan back on.

Larry

Listen to Larry, he is right. Slow and steady wins the race, put on some tunes and take your time. Good luck with it.

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

If the pans are the same as 72 with LF dip stick with PS I have two restored dentless pans for sale, what did you for the e-bay pan?

Ok I'm halfway there. The pitman arm was easy, just two bolts. Pan can out no problem. Bid surprise inside; looks like plastic pellets. Was this the remnants of an plstic timing gear?

I suggust before you bolt the pan back on you change the timing gear set so latter down the road you don't have to pull the pan and whatever because of engine damage caused by a failed timing gear set, whats the red stuff on the rear main seal and I hope you didn't cut the seal so it flushed up with the main cap.

No time to be penny wise and timing chain risky - it's extra time and work you didn't plan on but I would not chance it. While you're at it, a fresh cam and litters usually is the next thought if you're doing a timing chain on a high mileage motor ( and a bit of a performance grind is always nice) LukesVette2009-10-17 22:12:58

The red stuff is sealant. I installed the rear seal just like Larry said.