What is a fair amount of billable hours to remove and replace a big block engine from  '69?  Nothing is ever the same on this kind of procedure, but was curious as to a fair range of hours to "get er done". Has side pipes and headers and need to put in a new radiator".

Thanks in advance!  Terry

Wow! That is a good question. A lot of contingencies are in the mix on that one. Any number of difficulties can come into play there. One thing leads to another. While I'm in here, let's do this! Well, let's do this too!. SO.... it's anybodies guess what will transpire. 

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I'd say 2 cases of good beer....

I removed mine by myself but after the rebuild plan on getting my grandsons to help reinstall in engine bay then I’ll take it from there

Is it a manual transmission or automatic Terry? It took me an extra hour to rig the shifter mechanism when I converted over to an M20 from the TH400 on my '73 383. 

I've no BB experience, but working alone, it has taken me about 4 hrs to remove and 5 hrs to install a SB. Second R&R goes a little faster. Older Muncies have fewer driveshaft splines and that hung me up a while trying to carefully mate the block to it. Just one of the variables mentioned by others.

I thought this service manual would have estimated shop man-hours in it for certain jobs commonly done, but I couldn't find them. Maybe someone here who knows more about the manual will know where to look.

Hope this helps Terry.

Steve 

The manual will probably quote  "Flat Rate" time. Unless you do these every day, all the time, Flat Rate will not be a good indicator. Double it for a better rate. Don't know if they even use that rate anymore. 

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A huge project. The engine in / out is the easy part. It comes out a whole lot easier than back in, even with new parts. 

The rest of the car under the hood is a project in itself. Most of the other components are shot, so keep in mind the "while I'm in there" will kick in. Whatever you believe it will cost, double that and you'll be much closer......

I took my 350 out and back in with a very good friend / mechanic and it took a year. Not for the faint hearted.

If not already done, you'll want to replace for sure the underhood wiring harness, vacuum lines, and other deteriorating pieces to make it safe and reliable. 

Replacement parts are very iffy and a lot of them will disappoint you. I sent a lot back to the vendors because of shoddy appearance and quality. And most do not fit very well and even last at all. Electrical parts are the worst.

Being that said, it was a learning experience and a tremendous journey you might enjoy and be very proud of when back on the road. I certainly am!

Good luck and keep us in the loop as you move along. 

Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

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I removed the engine in my 73 in 2 days by myself. Reinstalled it  in 4 days by myself when I was 65

So all depends on your experience. 

Reinstalled in body 3 hours, damn 68 and non removable  crossmember still in progress since this morning between work meetings by myself oh and on the floor at 63

I should add to my Post - a lot of other things were done in the year while replacing the 350. Engine bay was empty so dug into restoration.

Brake lines, fuel lines. all the damn vacuum lines, wiring harness, headlight and wiper door motors, AC hoses, front cross member that rots out, refurbish wiper motor, steering box, blower motor, exhaust system, AC evaporator, cooling hoses, sandblasted, cleaned a lot of parts and painted the engine bay and wiper door stuff. A lot of disintegrated stuff when you get down to it. 

So yeah, a year was not unexpected! 😊

Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

(Click for a larger pic)

Good Morning,  I know the process. I did mine myself as well. Close to your age too. Maybe not in the detail you did, but the tyranny cross member was a pain! I was ignorant enough to finish it, and start on a couple more for the Love of the body style. Still doing a 75'. Being patient and enjoying the time. Never give up! I have no other vices. 

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I was under the impression that the removable crossmember was only in the automatic transmission cars. 

I removed and replaced a friend's '66 427 roadster in about a day each way. It would have probably been a little quicker if we had pulled the transmission along with the engine. It was a real bear putting it back in and getting it lined up with the clutch and throw-out bearing.

Using a leveler attachment along with the hoist makes it a lot easier. It's probably mandatory if you're going to do the engine and transmission together because you have to almost stand it on end to get it in. 

1973 L-82 4 spd

Forgot to update finished last Wednesday then Thursday timing putting the hood back on but the transmission and non removable crossmember was no fun on ground by yourself, had wife press clutch pedal then slid right in so all in all 3 days 

The radiator alone is quite a chore to get it in and out without damage. You have to pull it and the shroud together. make sure to remove the lower piece of the shroud. The biggest obstacle is the upper control arms... 

   Now if it needs upper control arm  bushings, do it now and the radiator at the same time. It will save you time, aggravation and your grandkids won't learn any new words. 

   Yes... One thing leads to another....Let the fun begin....

www.wildbunchcarclub.com

My '75 has a one-piece radiator shroud -- I could never get it out by itself.  I pulled the core-support with the radiator and shroud together, which seemed to be the easiest way. (In one year I pulled the engine 5 times, so I have some experience. . .).

I changed to an electric fan that is in its own shroud, so getting it out is no longer an issue.