This problem has been ongoing for a long time! 1982 corvette!
starts and runs fine, low mileage mostly original 60K car.
sometimes after it has ran a while and is warm, it starts right back up. If I leave it sit for 20-30 min after it’s hot it will not start! No starter crank at all, no click. Found the ppl wire on the connector at firewall is not getting a crank signal! But I Can short it over at the connector from a hot red wire and starts right up! I keep a short piece of wire in my glove box to do this, since I have found this always works!
I have replaced the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and anti theft relay and the anti theft module connector is totally disconnected! starter and solenoid and starter wiring harness have been replaced too!
I have found that sometimes when it won’t start warm, if I leave it another 30 min it will crank right up!
I also have another cycle of similar no start, if it sits for a week or two and the battery is down just a little, it has the same symptoms. No click, so power to starter on ppl wire, But I can jump it at the connector and the car will start right up! So it acts like the battery is low but it’s actually just not firing the starter ppl wire!
So this gremlin has been plaguing me for a couple of years! Wondering if the ECM is not allowing it to start for some reason. Tried bypassing the starter anti theft relay and did the same when hot and sits a while!
I have tested and replaced just about everything I can and it still does the same thing….. sometimes!
ANY IDEAS?
�
Maybe a bad connection at the bulkhead going to the fusebox?
It's tough to get to from the engine compartment side, but you can unbolt the connector and see if you have corrosion in there.
StingrayHawaii said:
Found the ppl wire on the connector at firewall is not getting a crank signal! But I Can short it over at the connector from a hot red wire and starts right up!If you are saying the main engine harness connector at the firewall, I agree with Steve on disconnecting/checking and reconnecting the fusebox connector. That connector on the firewall is basically the backside of the fusebox, and it is in 2 sections, with a small(I think 10mm in your case) bolt in the center that holds the connector to the fusebox. That thing does get corroded over time, and can cause all sorts of electrical maladies. This all assumes the anti-theft module, and relay are functioning properly. Of course, that purple wire in the main connector should ONLY be "hot" with the key in the "Start" position, so please clarify that is how you are testing for voltage. From the main connector, the purple wire goes directly to the starter interrupt relay(powered thru the "Crank" fuse from the ECM), which should have a purple/white wire that goes to the neutral safety switch, and a black/white wire coming from the anti-theft module. Verify that the "Crank" fuse has battery voltage with the key in the "Start" position.
I would certainly suspect the connection at the firewall/fusebox...doesn't take much corrosion to create a problem.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Will look at that, that also might explain the random sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t! Will look at that, thanks for the suggestion!
�