HELP!

I went to remove the driveshaft today so we could put front & rear seals on the transmission and change u-joints while the motor is at the machinist and I couldn't figure out how to remove the rear u-joint holders.  They aren't 7/16 and they don't appear to be allen or torx.  They look like a funky, modified 5/16 something or other.

I checked the book and it says remove the front and rear u-joint straps with a 7/16 wrench.  Also, if I did have a wrench or socket, I don't know how you would get in there.  the support that bolts to the crossmember is in the way and that crossmember doesn't come out.

Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated as always.

I had to use a small wrench & I think it was 7/16. Try a metric wrench, maybe someone buggered them up on the last install. You have to turn the drive shaft alot to get at each bolt, but it's possible. Install new bolts for the install.

Alan

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Best approach is a 7/16 socket on a veeerrryyy long extension. Approach it from the front of the car, keeping the extension parrallel with the drive shaft. Have a buddy help you get the socket on the bolts. If 7/16 seems too big and 3/8 is too small, somewhere around a 10MM socket should do the trick.

Good luck

Paul

LukesVette38964.2503819444

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On my 68 BB car, the u-joint straps were 5/16-24, so I had to get in there with a 1/2 wrench.  It was a 1/8 a turn at a time becacause to the front diff. suppt., it took awhile but it can be done, good luck-Phil flandy38964.4932175926

Could they be 5/16" 12 point bolts? Most of the late Sharks had these on the half-shafts. Could be that someone has replaced the diff bolts with half-shaft bolts.
The best way, regardless, is to come in from the front side, with an extension/socket. Be carefull not to round the heads off....that's a real pita to overcome!

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Joel Adams
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Why not just take that pinion support bracket off? I just sheared the 2 cotter pins off on the long cross bolts, too hard to get at them, and unbolted the bolt in front. Most likely you'll need a new cushion at the topside anyway. I did on an 11K mile car. Just to be safe, I measured the threads sticking out at the bottom. Mike mkapp787938964.4795949074

After thinking about your straps, if they aren't 5/16-24, they could be metric, try a 10mm box wrench on them and see if that works.  1980 was the year the General went to about half fasteners being metric, also look at the bolt heads, if they say 8.8, 9.8, or 10.9, that is the sure give-away.  Good luck-Phil

Thanks, guys.

I'll get to see her again this coming weekend.  She is currently housed at 71Shark's place until the bullet comes back.  I think, possibly, that they were metric 12 points that have been rounded to a point so nothing is visible on the heads.  May have to take an air cutoff and see if they can be cut off flush, then removed with the driveshaft out of the way.

I'll get back there with a scraper and see if I can get enough gunk out of the way to find all the bolts and try Mikes idea of pulling, then replacing the cushion.  If it isn't rotted by 26 yrs of time, the oil soaking it has gotten over the past few years will have certainly mushed it.

She's got her quirks, but I am actually enjoying wrenching on her.  It sure beats having to wrench on the daily driver!

I just di this a few weeks ago.  I have an '81, so I suspect we have exactly the same U-joint strap bolts.  Mine were SAE, not metric.  They require a 12-point socket, which can be hard to find in that small size.  I wish I could remember the exact size, but I can't - it's either 1/4 or 5/16.  I had to go to a specialty tool vendor to get 12-point sockets that small...

Actually, I think they ARE 1/4" 12 points. The late(81-82) cars are, anyway.

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Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

[QUOTE=mkapp7879]Why not just take that pinion support bracket off?[/QUOTE] Sorry, my bad, not removable on the 80-82s!!

Well, we got her up on the lift and scrubbed the bolt heads with a wire brush and they appear to be 1/4, definitely 12 point and 1 is definitely screwed up.  I got all the way over to 71Shark's place (38+miles) and remembered I was going to bring my 12 point set with me... 

We got the engine compartment painted and ground off the area in front of the power steering pump so the belt will go on.

Can't wait to get the engine back.  I think I'll go visitin' Friday to see where they are.

Joel;

I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to stop leaking around the passenger side front.  I put Blue RTV on the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive, bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally tighten.  Why can't I get it to stop leaking?

I thought it was too much torque but made sure to not crush the gasket out this time.  BTW, it has a broken bolt on the one that holds the extra bracket on.  It is the forwardmost one on the bracket.  I tried to back it out, but couldn't at my place.  Will try it in the air next.  I really would like to see this leak stop as the front & rear seals appear to have stopped all the other leaks.

Any thoughts/help would be, as always, greatly appreciated!

dnv- Are you talking tranny leak? If you are, make sure you have the source of the leak. I changed my pan and gasket twice before we discovered two seals were bad. One for the speedo and one for the passing gear. Replaced the seals and now no leaks.


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Well, it is a 1/4" 12 point to remove the rear and 7/16 to remove the front u-joint straps.

Also, if you go to Auto Zone, or other parts stores, make them give you the correct u-joints for both ends.  Apparently, the transmission end is bigger than the pumpkin end.  And wouldn't you know, I didn't find out until around 11pm, so they were closed and the 24 hr one is miles away. 

I did have to weld about 5 cracks and bad welds from the PO having a wrecked front end "fixed".  3 or 4 more welding rods and he could have done the job right.  It looked like they tried to MIG weld the front crossmember on the firewall side because there were several pieces of tiny wire about 1/2" long protruding from the gobs that looked like a first attempt at welding.  She should be much safer now.

OK, I guess I owe Auto Zone an apology (a small one).  Apparently, when the 80 was hit, it was hit hard in the front.  It must have been hard enough that they replaced everything all the way back because the 79 driveshaft u-joints fit.  The fronts are the same as 80, but the rear is smaller, or at least that is what we found when the guy pulled out the book, not their computer. 

On the other hand, it is a fairly early '80 car, so it could be a left over parts car from the 79 line.

Anyway, I now understand why you guys document with P/N's and pix.

[QUOTE=dnv] Joel;

I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to
stop leaking around the passenger side front.  I put Blue RTV on
the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive,
bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally
tighten.  Why can't I get it to stop leaking?[/QUOTE]

Sorry, Dennis! I just went thru this thread again and saw yer question!

If you have a persistant leak around the front passenger side of the trans, after changing the gasket, etc., it's most likely not the pan that is leaking.
On the pass. side front of the trans is the filler tube, and the kick-down cable. Most of the time, when I hear of a repeated leak in that area, it is either the filler tube or the cable leaking. The fluid will run down the side of the tranz, and seep around the edge of the pan, making it look like the pan is leaking.

Check the cable and the tube carefully. Remember, fluid will flow downward...not upward. If there is any fluid above the pan rail, it is leaking above the pan, and running down.

The filler tube and the cable have formed rubber seals that insert into the trans for a seal. The cable is very fragile after a few years, and it will break right there where the bolt holds the cable to the tranz. I would bet that is yer leak. If the cable is broken there, it must be replaced. If it is just leaking, then you can replace the seal only.

There is also an accummulator on that side of the trans, about halfway back from the front. They do leak sometimes, too.

Also...never use any type of sealer on a pan gasket. If the pan and the trans flange are clean and dry, the gasket will seal. Sillycone(RTV) sealants will skwish the gasket out...(that stuff is quite slippery)and it will leak. Adams' Apple38969.780625

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Use a few dabs of gasket adhesive instead of the RTV if the pan is straight. This will keep it in place and not create a wavy surface which could be a source for a trans pan leak. 

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Joel/Luke;

Thanks.  I'll be back to see her next week and will check the cable.  I might have screwed up the seal when I had the shift problem with the plunger.  It is working fine now but I moved the cable around quite a bit.

I'll go ahead and replace the pan gasket one more time, this time without sealer as I have a broken bolt from the PO that needs to be removed and replaced with a fresh bolt.  Now that it is on 71Sharks lift, I can get to it much easier.  THANKS TIM

We get the bullet back next Friday to start the build process on.  Keep yer fingers crossed.