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Topic: 69 Front clip removal

in Forum: C3 Body


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69 Front clip removal (1/4)
 11/14/02 8:02pm
vettewagon
Former Member

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Esperance, NY - USA

Vette(s):
1969 custom Vette-wagonback(under a major winter restore) 1977 stock coupe


Joined: 11/14/2002
Posts: 6

Hey,
Does any one have a reasonably simple way to remove the front clip from a `69 C3? I am doing a restore and want to remount the front end when ready. I've already unbolted everything now how to remove it from the cowl?
Dennis |hammer|
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69 Front clip removal (2/4)
 11/19/02 10:38pm
Mr69Vett
Former Member

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DE PERE, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1969 350, 4-spd, 3.53 gear, side exhaust, custom mix yellow PPG base/clear Brilliant Yellow


Joined: 12/9/2001
Posts: 231

Dennis,

There is NO simple way to remove the front clip. The bonding strips will have to be broke, cut or ground out. The nose of the clip is bolted to the core support, but that does not give you anything. If you were to remove the inner fender wells with the front it would be easier. Then you still have to seperate the front clip along both sides all the way up and down the front of each doors. The top strip along the firewall tieing the fenders together can either be seperated from firewall or left in place and cut on each side. Then you must seperate the top back of the fenders by the winsheild working your way towards the nose. I believe there are also bonding strips inbetween the gills running vertical that will also have to be seperated. I assume you will be leaving the front lower valance in place, so you'll have to remove the front support so that you caan lift up on the front clip to clear the inner fender wells. I know all this cause I did do it. I didn't have to be very careful removing mine casue I was replacing with a complete new section. I do believe Ecklers sells a book that covers it, I did read some articles on it before doing it. I didn't have all the fanch tools, but if your going to do it, one hint is "heat" from a heat gun or hand held torch seems to release the bonding adhesive. I have not found one person that could tell I replaced mine, I took my time and it turned out very nice, good luck.

Dave
Mr69vett |smokin|

knew should have proof read before entering

|UPDATED|11/19/2002 11:38:37 PM|/UPDATED|


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69 Front clip removal (3/4)
 11/22/02 7:39am
vettedreams79Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Grand Blanc, MI - USA

Vette(s):
1979, 350sb, as my kids affectionately call it "shit brown" Corvette purchased in 1996. 84,000+ miles. Not a show car, but I love her just the same.


Joined: 8/7/2002
Posts: 544

I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I work in the industrial sheet metal business and I'd like to offer a "trick" that might work with separation of the bonding.

Some metal is adhered with a product from 3M called Very High Bond Tape (VHB) and they suggest that anytime you have to separate the metal pieces that a length of fishing line used as a micro saw between the metals is the best and easiest way.

If the bonding agent hardens on the Vettes over time I would then suggest using a combination of the heat to soften the bond and the fishing line to saw it. This may save anyone from damage from excessive heat to any one spot on their vehicle during the process.

NOt sure if this would help, but thought I'd offer it.
|smokin|
69 Front clip removal (4/4)
 12/21/02 5:23am
69MyWay
Former Member

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ORANGE PARK, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1990 Polo Green Six Speed 1969 Convertible


Joined: 7/23/2002
Posts: 67

Get your printer ready, because this is what you need to know.

1. It is NOT easy (I agree)
2. Get a series of hand tools.
a. several different putty knives
b. hack saw blades
c. razor knife
d. chisel set
e. long screw drivers/pry bars.
3. Power tools you will need
a. saws all
b. heat gun
c. propane torch to heat the metal tips of tools


You already covered step one by unbolting the unboltable.
Now, you need to remove the doors from the car to gain clear access to the door jams.

On the upper cowl/windshield wiper tray, cut the strip that goes between the fenders about 3" inbound on each side.

Fire up the heat gun, and start heating the car at the door jam and lightly digging at the edge with the putty knife or razor knife. You will see the bonding agent start to let go, and leave an opening to go in with the metal tip of the tools. Now, you start heating and wedging the tools to start seperating the fender from the inner support.

Do this from the removed door side, and under the rocker portion. Go inside the fender to the firewall/cowl area and work it the same from there. As you debond and pry it apart, have a friend wiggle/lift on the nose so you can see where it is still held in place.

You can use the torch to heat the tip of the metal tools and press them into the bonded areas.

This is an ugly job, and you will damage the paint as well as mess up some of the edges of the fender. Don't sweat the small stuff, keep plugging along.

At some point you may have to slip the hack saw blade in and hand work it to cut small areas apart.

As you get close to the end, you will be frustrated, so you can just whip out the saws all and hack it on off. Don't worry, it can all be bonded/put back together later.

If Adam does not mind, here is a link to a detailed descrip of where I just finished (within the last couple of weeks) popping a front clip back on a 71 that I had removed last year in the same method.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19251

Out side of lifting the body from the frame, this is possibly the most difficult single job you can do on the car. However, I promise you that if you tackle and complete this, there won't be anything you can't do from now on to the car.

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