If I replace my rotors, how do you install the new rivets? When I did my 74 i drilled out the rivets and did not replace them. I also turned my rotors by them selves off the hub. Havent seen any issues yet. Now I turned the rotor (still riveted to the hub this time) for the 72 today, and once done I measured it and it is just under the minimum so Im thinking about replacement. Will I need to buy a tool to re rivet them back on the hub? If so I havent seen any of them on a site yet. Should they be riveted together or is it just a matter of preference? Where is the best place to buy a quality rotor? I checked with NAPA and they are pretty expensive compared to a vender like CA. Has anyone used any rotors from CA?
Rodney


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If you're talking about the front rotors, they should never be un-riveted from the hubs, imho. If they need servicing/turning, it should be done with the hub attached.
The rear rotors is an entirely different deal....not much you can do to turn them except to drill the rivets, and separate from the hub, unless you have an on-car lathe.

Re-riveting the rotors back to the hubs is not a necessity. It's an adventure in graphic language, and an opportunity to expand your level of patience. It also requires some serious tooling to do it properly(ie: safely).


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Joel Adams
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It is not necessary to replace the rivets once the rotor is replaced. The rivets were there from the factory as an easy means for the rotors to be installed and run true once they were trued at the factory as a unit with the hub so that there was no runout.  If the rivets are not replaced you will just need to  mark the rotors once you get the runout where you want it by turning or shimming (no more than .005 total runout preferred).  The marks enable you to make sure that you can return them in the same position on the hub if  you ever remove them in the future.  One option instead of replacing the rivets is to tap the rivet holes in the  hub with a  3/8-24 tap  and countersink the RIVET holes in the rotor to accept a short approximately 3/4 inch 3/8-24 flat head socket head screw which will sit a little lower than flush on the rotor.  In this way the rotor stays EXACTLY where you put  and you can remove the rotor if needed in the future.  HERE is a pic of rotors with socket head bolts installed, its a web pic and not great but Im at work and cant access my home machine from here but you can get the idea. EDIT.. Joel, you were posting while I was composing and looking for a picCrossfire19822011-07-14 05:42:51

I put the NAPA rotors on the back of mine..they don't even have the holes for the rivets..I touched them with the pro cut just to knock out any play..stops good and no air in the lines!!

Rich

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Thanks for the replys, I need to replace the front rotors because they are to thin. Do you believe that I have to buy rotors on hubs or can I just buy rotors and fasten them to my hubs. On my 74 i just slid the rotor back over the studs and allow them to draw tight when the wheel is tightened. I have no issues but dont drive it out on the road that often and not for long distances. However I hope that I will use the 72 differently and want it to be right from the start.
Rodney


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An update on the use of screws to attach rotors to hubs for those who are not familiar with it and prefer not to have rotors loose on the lug studs.  If you are interested I have attached a few pics  of a front rotor that I replaced some time back.

Rotor with rivets in place

Starting to drill rivets out

What the rivets look like on the back side

Drilling out rivets

Rivets with heads drilled off or drilled completely through and removed

Tapping the hub

Countersink and bolt 

Flat head bolt flush with top of rotor

Truing rotor for minimum runout

New rotor bolted to hub